Forces of fashion: Designer duo Rohit Gandhi and Rahul Khanna on their journey, design philosophy and much more

Having met at a NIFT workshop, the pair would not have dreamt of building a brand together and tread a course of more than 25 years in the fashion business.

Sobhita Dhulipala and Ishaan Khatter turn showstopper for Rohit Gandhi and Rahul Khanna's India Couture Week 2023 show. (Source: PR Handout)

It was in 1997 when India was introduced to the dynamic designer duo Rohit Gandhi and Rahul Khanna’s (RGRK) sharp silhouettes and fine tailoring. Along with chic and contemporary prêt-wear, the designers also brought the blend of architecture and fashion design into Indian fashion — weaving together metallic textures with softer fabrics and combining structure with fluidity.

Having met at a NIFT workshop, the pair would not have dreamt of building a brand together and tread a course of more than 25 years in the fashion business. From dressing up almost every Bollywood celebrity to globally-renowned stars like John Legend and Raja Kumari, the designers have come a long way.

Most recently, the duo brought back oodles of bling, neo-traditional silhouettes, unconventional menswear to their latest collection ‘Equinox’ that they presented at the India Couture Week. With showstoppers Sobhita Dhulipala and Ishaan Khatter — the ace designers showcased their collection that “meets the wonders of the universe” and “fashion takes flight with celestial allure”. Each piece is meticulously crafted to mirror the constellations that grace the night sky.

In an interview with indianexpress.com, Gandhi and Khanna opened up about their latest collection, their design journey, the evolution of fashion and the celebrities they’d like to dress in the future. Excerpts:

What was the idea behind ‘Equinox’?

When we first began designing our collection, we focused on achieving a balance in our garments that could be worn for both daytime and nighttime occasions. We wanted our pieces to be versatile and able to be worn multiple times. Our goal was to create couture pieces that were both high-end and practical. During our discussions, we came up with the name Equinox — inspired by the phenomenon where the sun aligns with the earth to create an equal balance of day and night. This concept perfectly aligned with our design philosophy. Our collection combines elements of faith and fable, architecture and craft — resulting in a perfectly balanced collection.

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What was it like working with Sobhita Dhulipala and Ishaan Khatter as showstoppers for the collection?

Collaborating with Sobhita Dhulipala and Ishaan Khatter for the collection was an enriching experience. Both of them are incredibly talented and versatile actors who brought a unique charm and character to our designs. Sobhita’s grace and elegance perfectly complemented the ethereal silhouettes, while Ishaan’s charisma and energy added an element of dynamism to the collection.

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What are the challenges you have faced in your design journey? How did you overcome them?

Over the course of 25 years, each year has brought more excitement than the last in our profession as fashion designers. We have had the opportunity to travel the globe — showcasing our collections and participating in fashion shows worldwide. This journey has been both exhilarating and challenging, particularly during the early years when social media did not exist. We had to fulfill multiple roles as designers, manufacturers, managers and merchandisers.

The initial phase was particularly demanding and thrilling. However, with the advent of the internet — accessibility has increased — making things somewhat easier. Every year, we witness new developments in the industry, and now, with AI’s emergence, we eagerly anticipate the new era. One of the aspects we appreciate about fashion is its unpredictable nature, requiring us to create something new each day.

What is that one design principle that you swear by?

One design principle we swear by is ‘timelessness’. We believe that creating designs that stand the test of time is essential in the fashion industry. Our aim is to craft pieces that can be cherished and worn for years — transcending fleeting trends and remaining relevant season after season.

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How do you think fashion has evolved since the time you both started your label?

People are becoming more experimental and know what they want. They are no longer following fashion trends straight from the runway but instead creating their own unique style by mixing vintage pieces, items from their mother’s wardrobe and new designer collections. This shift has brought about passionate and interesting energy. Traditional looks are no longer the norm, and there are no longer any rules to follow. Men are experimenting with different silhouettes, drapes and colours like pink and fuchsia. This change has been happening for both men and women for a while now and is inevitable. It’s time for evolution and a new era. The younger generation is growing up with a different sensibility, leading to a significant change in fashion.

How would you describe your personal style?

Our personal style can be described as a harmonious blend of classic elegance with contemporary flair. We enjoy experimenting with various textures, silhouettes and colours while maintaining a sense of sophistication and refinement in our outfits.

Till now, who is your favourite celebrity to dress? Who do you wish to design for in the future?

We want to dress many people, but Leonardo DiCaprio and Cillian Murphy are on our wish list.

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Where do you see your brand in the next five years?

In the next five years, we envision our brand expanding its global presence and establishing itself as a leading name in luxury fashion. We aim to continue innovating and incorporating cutting-edge technologies while maintaining our commitment to craftsmanship and timeless design.

What is your advice to younger designers starting out their careers?